I got an e-mail from a admirer a few days ago say me that her husband bought her an orchid plant for Christmas . She has always wanted one but has no clue how to take guardianship of it . I believe she was surprised when I say her how comfortable it could be .
For many years I had a collection of a twelve or so orchid plants , most of which were throwing away from the flower store I used to work in . I see how to take care of them from a member of our local chapter of the Orchid Society . Once my friend evidence me that the label on her plant say her it was a Phalaeonopsis — or moth — orchid , I could pass on some advice . I think I might share it here in hopes of inspiring some of you to take a shot at acquire these beautiful plants yourself .
Moth orchids are some of the most commonly available orchid ; they are inexpensively reproduced through tissue paper acculturation generation and are simply beautiful . With moth - like blossoms in sundry colouring and size and a long bloom time , Phalaeonopsis orchids have become very democratic . They even sell them at local hardware and grocery stores .
Moth orchids have several flush on each inflorescence stem ( often squall a “ spike ” ) , and each plant can cast several flower spikes per bloom flow . When the plant is in flower , it should be keep in a cool domain out of direct sun — ardent temporary worker and direct sunlight can lead to more speedy maturement of the flowers , limiting the bloom time .
Once the last flower drop off , use a clean , incisive shear to cut the efflorescence stem down to just above the second leaf node . you may find the nodes by locate the “ drop off ” site of the modest flower and following the stem down towards the base of the plant . The guest come along as minuscule , lightheaded - green , inverted Vs along the stem . They might also be slenderly raised . By murder the theme above this point , you often advance the works to throw a new side spike from this node . It does n’t always happen , but you ’ll make out in about three weeks if it does . Once this spike fetch up bloom , or when you are sure no new spikes will break , cut the full florescence stem completely off .
Continue to water the plant life by placing it under the running tap for several minutes every 10 to 14 day ( use way - temperature or slimly warm urine ) . Always take into account the plant to amply drain before putting it back onto a shiny windowsill or , ideally , under grow lights for 12 to 14 hours per mean solar day . When the danger of frost has passed in the springiness , move the plant out of doors to a louche region . remain to irrigate it regularly ( every few twenty-four hour period in the summer ) and , come June , commence to fertilize it with an organic liquidfertilizer , such as kelp or fish emulsion , every three to four weeks . When September arrives and the nighttime begin to cool , move the plant back indoors into a brilliant window or back under the grow lights . As orchids like high humidness , filling a shallow tray with little rocks and water then set the orchid pot on top of the stone is a effective idea ( the bottom of the pot should not sit directly in the piss , though ) . As the water evaporates , replenish it to keep the humidity raised .
Continue to feed the plant every three weeks until late November . It should begin to develop new flower spike sometime shortly after . Repot your orchid every three years . Use the same sized throne ( they develop up , not out ) and fresh orchid - specific growing media . Good luck !
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