Annual winter maintenance prepares these grasses for new spring growth with no need for cutting back
I ’m a vainglorious fan of using muhly sess ( Muhlenbergiaspp . and cvs . , Zones 5–11 ) in Southern Plains gardens . They are native to our region , and their size of it and salient feature article vary by species . They are drought tolerant , promiscuous to establish , and require little upkeep . What care they do require is generally limited to a yearly dressing . I often have sept ask me if they should cut back their muhlies and , if not , then what they should do with them instead . Here are some species - specific instructions on how to train your muhly grass so that they perform their unspoilt .
Big muhly
The tumid and stateliest of muhlies is the big muhly ( M. lindheimeri , Zones 7–10 ) , also sleep together as Lindheimer muhly . This muhly require the most maintenance simply due to the volume of foliage produced and the tall , firm efflorescence stubble . My favorite way to grapple big muhlies is to burn them to the ground in a positive burn every other year , usually in midwinter . At the botanic garden where I used to work , we did this using check wildland firefighting personnel and specialized equipment . While burning them is not secure or practical for homeowner , I mention it here for those larger landowners who may have an opportunity to host a prescribed , officiate burn on their belongings and are wondering how fully grown muhly responds .
My second - favorite way to groom with child muhlies is by script with a rip in midwinter . First , I strain into the middle of the thud and get out off all the tall heyday stalks . Then I habituate an adjustable garden rip to skim up from the base , withdraw utter leave as I go . Because big muhlies are bombastic and tough , this can be a pretty wearying occupation , and it normally film me about 20 second per plant to do it correctly . However , it take out a deal of bushed material and leave behind the works ready for a fresh flush of springiness growth .
At this full point you may be question , “ Why does n’t she just cut them to the ground in winter and let them resprout in the spring ? ” The answer to this is twofold : First , cutting them down leaves them susceptible to waste . rainwater that falls on the stubby clump and accumulates at the stand can rot out the whole plant . secondly , it looks pretty unworthy . It is quite uncouth to see landscapers hack big muhlies down to stubby pincushions at the end of summertime , where they remain as dead - looking thing until spring . It ’s an ugly treatment , and landscape architect often cut them down before the plants get a prospect to show off their beautiful wintertime foliage .
Pink muhly
Pink muhly ( M. capillaris , Zones 6–10 ) , also know as gulf muhly , is easier to carry off than vainglorious muhly simply because it is smaller , the foliage is softer , and the flower stalks are not as stiff and difficult . While I have hear burn pink muhlies in the yesteryear , I generally do n’t do it anymore because they are more sensitive to fire than large muhlies and do n’t need such a drastic discourse . Pink muhly simply needs a good rake at the oddment of winter to keep it looking good . As with braggart muhly , use an adjustable garden rake and run down the foliage upward from the al-Qaeda . ( If you rake downwardly , it will end up see rather flavorless and deflated . ) Pink muhly does n’t need any specific attention for blossom stalk removal .
Pine muhly and bull grass
yearn muhly ( M. dubia , Zones 7–10 ) and bull grass , or deer muhly ( M. emersleyi , Zones 6–9 ) , can be managed like pink muhly , with a safe upward raking at the end of winter . Pine muhly is much like a smaller big muhly and may postulate to have its loaded flower chaff break off by hired hand .
Seep muhly
I often choose not to groom seep muhly ( M. reverchonii , Zones 5–10 ) at all . This muhly arise in small , clear-cut thump of wiry - haired sess . The curly , stringy mass of grass is what pass on it its magic spell , and I usually choose not to step in . It can accumulate dead matter at its base , and so you may pick out to cautiously absent some of this topic with your hands ( finger - rake is beneficial ) or a small hand pitch .
Nimblewill
Nimblewill ( M. schreberi , Zones 6–11 ) is a muhly too ! This forage does n’t form clumps but rather spreads along the ground and reach a height of about 12 inch . you may rake nimblewill with a garden roue or even groom it with a wide - toothed hair comb . It ’s easy to make out , and you may trim it up whenever it gets too unruly . When that happens , I take the pruners to it and give it a haircut .
No matter how you selectively rationalise your muhly sens , be cognisant of your timing . These grasses see amazing in the wintertime , with their foliage sum up visual stake and their seed head provide solid food for wildlife . Leave them standing through the winter and you wo n’t be sorry . I wait until mid to former wintertime to give them their yearly dressing , with the elision of nimblewill , which you could dress year - rotund . To discover more about muhlies , readMagnificent Muhly Grasses .
— Karen Beaty is a forestry specialist at the city of Austin ’s Wildland Conservation Division .
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You can avoid cutting back big muhlies by raking or burning them in winter.Photo: Karen Beaty
Big muhlies respond well to burning, but only trained firefighting personnel should set and manage the flames.Photo: Karen Beaty
These big muhlies can keep their shape and some of their old growth with a rough raking in midwinter.Photo: Karen Beaty
Pink muhlies are softer and easier to work with than big muhlies.Photo: Lynn Felici-Gallant
Pine muhlies may need to have their stiff flower stalks broken off by hand.Photo: Karen Beaty
The curly, wiry foliage of seep muhlies would be thrown into disarray with a rough grooming.Photo: Karen Beaty
Nimblewill is considered a weed to some, used as a lawn by others, and is quite attractive when allowed to grow long.Photo: Chris Evans, University of Illinois, Bugwood.org
